Ahmed very kindly took us all souvenir shopping the next evening to Mavişehir (Blue City), famous all over Turkey for its sunsets. There was also an undercover market selling a variety of goods including various knock off designer goods, which was situated a few yards from the beach. A short walk away there was also a row of small beach cafes with crudely covered terraces, a stone’s throw from the water’s edge. Despite the plastic chairs and tables together with the rudimentary menus, these restaurants had their own unique charm and the views were picture postcard perfect.
Ahmed’s brothers and the terrible twins tagged along again and this time the girls were dressed in miniscule booty shorts that even Kylie Minogue would have been embarrassed to wear. The boys took great delight in haggling on the girls’ behalf and I have since discovered that there are three prices for most things in Turkey; one for the tourists, one for the expats and one for the Turks. So if you are ever fortunate enough to find yourself in a Turkish market, ensure that you take a Turk along with you. The girls’ squeals of delight, when the boys had successfully secured a good price for a desired bootleg item, could be heard echoing throughout the market. Although I suspected that the girls’ probably needed new clothes as much as the Pope needed a new balcony.
I was mesmerised by the whole market experience, and content to wander from stall to stall absorbing the atmosphere, the sounds, the bright colours and the enticing smells of the Turkish food stands; pancakes, fresh juice, baked potatoes and doughnuts. One of Ahmet’s “friends” was working on the pancake stall so, of course, for a small price we were invited to sit and eat a pancake with our chosen filling.
After we had eaten, we continued our stroll around the market. I had to smile as the generator stalled constantly throughout the evening causing brief blackouts but as the resilient market traders switched on torches, I assumed that this was a regular occurrence. I loved the colourful displays of various goods, the rows and rows of fresh fruit and vegetables and had to admit that the clinical displays in the supermarkets back home weren’t anywhere near as appealing.
As I wandered around the market with Ahmed, I lingered at one fruit and veg display, where an elderly stallholder and his traditionally dressed Turkish wife enjoyed some banter with the locals over their purchases. The wife caught my eye and grinned at me and as she did her entire face radiated joy. As she served Ahmed, she continually gestured to me throughout their conversation. She must have liked what he told her as the next thing I knew we had been invited to share some çay. We sat down on some upturned plastic crates in the middle of the market chaos, behind this little fruit stall whilst the wife attended to the çay, constantly chatting away to Ahmed, who in turn translated for me. She said that they owned a small holding a little further along the coast and their family had been coming to this market to sell their produce for as long as she could remember. She said that they were simple folk and unlike many of the stallholders, they came even throughout the winter. She apologised as she said she had never finished school and could barely read and write. I asked her through Ahmed, what differences she felt there were between English and Turkish women. She paused briefly before saying that in her opinion Turkish women were more content and I realised that I was in the presence of someone who had found the meaning of true happiness. When we had finished our tea she took my glass and turned it upside down. Smiling at me, she said to Ahmed that I would return to Turkey for although I had a foot in one place, my heart was in another.
As we said our goodbyes, she touched a lock of my hair with her weather-beaten hands and smiling shyly she removed her headscarf to reveal newly set and coloured auburn curls which she proudly patted. As we turned to leave she called out to us “veda arkadaş” (farewell friends).
We have returned to see her many times since and there is always a smile and glass of çay waiting for me. Each time we sit with each other a while; neither of us understanding each other’s language yet we manage through shared photographs and the odd word or gesture. Each and every time is a moment of sunshine happiness for me and the simplicity of sitting on those upturned crates throughout the changing seasons is another treasured memory that I will add to my scrapbook of golden days.
When I first met the man I married, many moons ago… We couldn’t talk each others language either, it was fun getting to know each other without words. This is a good story you’re telling (there are some similarities to mine). I hope its leading up to the moment you decided to stay in Turkey for good…
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There’s a lot to be said about speaking different languages and its the differences that we are attracted to. And you’re absolutely right, these stories are why I decided to return to Turkey. Totally an unexpected blessing – a bit like blogging!
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This is a beautiful episode. I love the idea of the auburn curls under the headscarf. 😉 Your sunset pic is stunning.
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Thank you for that as I wasn’t sure if anybody would like it as it wasn’t funny and the sunsets are stunning in Mavişehir, I could sit and watch them every night and I would never get bored.
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I loved reading this, the old woman sounds a lovely generous person. It’s sad it’s so rare to find someone so content with their life.
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She is and was. I am truly richer for meeting her in so many ways.
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I had a slightly similar experience here in Czech. When we first got here, the only person who bothered to talk to me was an old woman who was probably in her 70’s. In post communist Czech, locals (mostly old people) are still unaccustomed to see foreigners in their town. But despite our language barrier, she managed to invite me for lunch. That made me feel at home.
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Sometimes when life is a little overwhelming, it is the kindness of a stranger that can make all the difference
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I am all caught up now. Thank the heavens. You write so well and it’s so entertaining but at the same time has so much quality. I have never been to Turkey, although I hear the beaches are wonderful. I would be interested to see you post some of the turkish food 🙂 I have learned in my travels that people don’t necessarily have to understand eachother to communicate. As long as one is respectful of the other’s culture and maintains a friendliness you can make many friends.
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Turkey is truly a glorious country and so is the food! I was and am still very keen to meet as many locals as I can afterall that’s one of the reasons I am here!
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Beautiful episode and very romantic and also very true! it is rare to be in the company of someone who his truly happy. But it is good to know that it exists and that it doesnt have anything to do with stuff or being rich! Hope I find that kind of peace one day 🙂
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You are so right and I felt blessed when I met her
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Now that’s what I call a sunset!
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Love the sunset photo!
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Mavişehir has some of the most fabulous sunsets in Turkey
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Ditto all the comments about loving the sunset photo 🙂
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How special! As trite as it sounds, it is these moments that stay with you forever (at least that’s what I reckon). What a lovely gift to have met such a woman.
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I thought so too!
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wonderful! I was right there with you, what a touching story!
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It’s times like these when I wish I were a good photographer like you and I could capture these moments on film forever
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Aww this was too sweet. It sounds as though you have made a great friend in this woman. And the cay looks quite tasty!
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For the Turkish its a very social thing drinking çay, more about the company than the drink itself
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As usual I love these updates. Another of Ahmet’s “friends”! Also isn’t it amazing how sometimes you don’t have to speak the same language in order to make a friend/get along with someone?
Your market friend sounds a little bit like my uncle. While my mother was studying abroad in France (maybe before she was dating my father), my uncle (already married to my father’s sister at the time) turned to my mother and told her she would be returning to France. Little did he know how right he would be…!
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Hope I will be as lucky as your mom
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What, not funny? What about the Pope’s new balcony?! Lovely vignnette – funny those connections with people even without shared language.
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Was really nervous when I pushed “publish” on this one so thank you for your kind words. And you, of course, know all about the kindness of strangers in a foreign land.
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Lovely post CT. You have a gift.
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What a lovely thing to say!
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You write so beautifully that I feel as though I am right there with you.
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I am really really touched as I was really nervous about this one as I usually have a more humorous style so I thought no one would read this post other than my mum, so I really do thank you
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Bless you for “liking” a recent post of mine and for your lovely, warm, and empathetic sharing about your friendship and visits with that Turkish stallholder’s wife! True peace and happiness in that lady, indeed! How blessed you are to have made such a genuine connection there in Turkey! And those twins just have giggling! Not a whole lot differnet from American girls, it would seem, in their shopping habits!
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I think teenagers are the same pretty much the world over – thank you for all your comments it is more appreciated than you know!
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LOVELY! Amazing “penmanship” my friend! I miss those markets, impromptu invitations to drink çay, and the sunsets…oh the sunsets.
I have moved: http://dejafashion.blogspot.com hope you still come visit 🙂
x x
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You can count on it – will do some investigating later so that I “follow” you!
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thanks my dear 🙂 I should have a bloglovin’ thingy on there for you to click on if you use it…
http://dejafashion.blogspot.com
x x
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Found you x
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I’ve done a quick retro through your blog, and I love it. Your fantastic outlook, entertaining turn of phrase coupled with the knack of drawing me along with you, made me quite forget I was sitting at my work desk waiting for Friday to be over 🙂
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How fabulous for me to read your comments this morning – I thank you from the bottom of my heart. Have a fab weekend!
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I love your writing style. Thanks for visiting Bones’ Diary.
Love Bones
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Thank you and I liked yours too!
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I love reading your posts, I wish I could write, you have a great talent. Turkey is a wonderful country and I feel the majority of the Turkish people are truly happy with the simple things in life that’s one of the many things I love about living here.
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Oops! forgot to say love your photo’s too lol
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Wonderful post that makes me want to go there! Thanks for taking the time to add so many good pictures!
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Thanks for dropping by and I hope you to decide to try Turkey out one day, it’s a fantastic country, well worth a visit!
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Thank you for liking my blog because it gave me an opportunity to read yours.
As I read your words I was reminded of the experiences I have here in Belize as well. The people who stop to talk to you on the streets, along with the signs and sounds of new experiences – such as babies being carried in a blanket supported on the head of the Maya mother, or the women who breast-feed their babies openly on the streets, or the children squealing with delight playing with nothing more than a stick or stone they have found. I was riding in the back of a pick up truck the other day and came across a yard with a horse tied up in it. The house was just on the outskirts of town, but it was this kind of easy living that made me smile. I get the sense you feel the same way during your Turkey journey that I feel here.
Your sunset is better than any I will ever get (I have jungle and hills behind me blocking the sunsets and the buildings aren’t high enough to get over the trees) and if I would get up early enough in the morning maybe one day I will post a sunrise picture that will rival your sunset one. 🙂
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That’s exactly how I feel and that’s what drew me to your blog. I look forward to seeing pictures of your sunrise!
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I’m in love! I love open air markets and I love to travel! This place sounds amazing and I would love to visit!
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It’s an amazing place and I really do know how lucky I am!
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Hi, what a beautiful story, and so well written! Maybe language sometimes is more a barrier in real communication then we think it is. Sounds like you’re a warmhearted, exploring and openminded woman, otherwise this turkish woman never would have approached you!
Jessica
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Maybe she saw something of a kindred spirit in me, whatever it was, I am grateful! Thank you for dropping by Jessica
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You transport me and include me in a world I doubt I’ll ever have the pleasure of experiencing for myself. I love some of the pictures you’ve included too. So glad I stumbled upon your blog. I’ll be back.
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Thank you Tara – I hope you do have the chance to visit because Turkey is a magical place
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this is a beautiful post. little encounters like those can be so liberating.
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It’s the moments like this that make it all worthwhile
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I’m glad you are finding joy in Turkey!
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I love it! And fortunately, most of the bloggers that read my blog have either been and fallen in love with it too or they want to come and experience it for themselves. Everyone should have the opportunity to visit Turkey at least once in their lifetime
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Thank you for liking my Cambodia trip post. I did visit turkey. I posted some photos on one of my blogs. You are a good writer. Keep it up. May be you will have a book published some day. Congrats to have so many readers.
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Thank you for the encouragement – I am one lucky girl
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A particularly beautiful installment Dallas. Thank you for sharing these cherished memories with us.
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I feel blessed to have met so many lovely people that were as fascinated by me (can’t think why) as I was by them and I was and remain touched by their consideration and I will honestly remember it for the rest of my life
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That was so lovely! (I’m having a lovely time this evening getting up to date with your ‘honeymoon’ series) 🙂
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Haven’t read them myself in a while as I’m sure I will wonder what on earth I was thinking but wouldn’t have missed it all for the world
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Mavisehir sunsets are fantastic although I swop the cay for an ice cold efes! 😉
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I completely agree with you on that one together with a cold efes; true perfection
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What a lovely day you had..in fact it was almost ‘normal’….
Sherri-Ellen & Nylablue
(we break for tuna-tuna)
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